原标题: 山东省济南市妇幼医院到底好不好飞度新闻
Exercise has innumerable health benefits, but losing weight may not be among them. A provocative new study shows that a substantial number of people who take up an exercise regimen wind up heavier afterward than they were at the start, with the weight gain due mostly to extra fat, not muscle.运动对健康有数不清的益处,但减肥可能并非其中之一。一项富有挑战意味的新研究表明,很多人在开始执行体育锻炼计划后体重反而有所增加,更糟糕的是,增加的这部分大多是多余的脂肪而不是肌肉。But the study also finds, for the first time, that one simple strategy may improve people’s odds of actually dropping pounds with exercise.但也正是这同一项研究首次发现了一种可以切实增加人们运动减肥几率的简单策略。As we all know, the fundamentals of weight loss should be simple. Burn more calories on any given day than you consume and, over time, you will lose weight. Theoretically, we can achieve that desirable condition by reducing the number of calories that we take in through dieting or by increasing the number of calories that we incinerate through exercise.我们都知道,减肥的基本原理非常简单。只要你每天消耗的热量多于摄入量,随着时间的推移,你就会越来越瘦。从理论上说,通过节食减少热量摄入或通过运动增加热量消耗都能达到上述理想状况。But in reality, most people do not achieve or sustain weight loss, no matter what method they try.但在现实中,大多数人试遍了所有方法,还是没能达到或维持所希望的减肥效果。Exercise is particularly problematic in this regard. A recent review of studies related to exercise and weight control found that in most of the studies, people lost barely a third as many pounds as would have been expected, given how many calories they were burning during workouts. Many studies also report enormous variations in how people’s waistlines respond to the same exercise program, with some people dropping pounds and others gaining fat.在这方面,运动的问题尤其大。近期的一项关于运动和体重控制研究的综述发现,在大多数的研究中,人们在运动后的体重减轻量,只有按照锻炼消耗的卡路里数换算出来的预期减重量的三分之一。许多研究还报告,即使执行相同的锻炼计划,不同的人的腰围变化之间也存在巨大差异,一部分人的体重减轻了,另一部分人反倒更胖了。Scientists have had little understanding, however, of why exercise helps some people but not others to shed pounds or whether there might be early indications of how people will respond to an exercise routine.但是,对于为什么运动能够帮助某些人甩掉赘肉却对另一些人毫无用处,科学家们仍然没什么头绪,此外,他们也不清楚是否有什么早期指征可以预测,有规律的锻炼对具体的某个人的效果如何。So for the new study, which was published last month in The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, scientists at Arizona State University in Phoenix recruited 81 healthy but sedentary adult women. All of the women were overweight, based on their body mass index, but some were significantly heavier than others. None had exercised regularly in the past year.上个月,《力量与训练研究杂志》(The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research)上发表了一项新研究。在这项研究中,位于菲尼克斯的亚利桑那州立大学(Arizona State University)的科学家们招募了81名习惯久坐不动的健康成年女性。根据身体质量指数(B.M.I.)来判断,她们全都超重,但其中一部分人超重更为显著。在过去一年里,她们均未进行过有规律的锻炼。The women were told that they would be joining a fitness study and would exercise in order to improve their aerobic endurance. The scientists asked the women not to change their eating habits in any way.科学家们告诉这些受试女性,她们将参加一项以增强有氧耐力为目标的健身研究,并要求她们不要对原来的饮食习惯作出任何改变。Each of the volunteers visited the physiology lab at the start of the study and the scientists determined their weight, B.M.I., percentage of body fat, current endurance level, and others measures of health and fitness.在研究开始时,每名志愿者都来到生理实验室,接受了体重、B.M.I.、体脂百分比、当前耐力水平等多种健康和健身指标的测定。Then each woman began a supervised exercise program designed to be vigorous but manageable by most people, said Glenn Gaesser, a professor of nutrition and health promotion at Arizona State and senior author of the study. The women walked on tmills at the laboratory three times per week for 30 minutes at a pace that represented about 80 percent of their maximum endurance.其后,她们开始在监督下执行锻炼计划,而且,据该研究的资深作者、亚利桑那州立大学的营养和健康促进学教授格伦·盖瑟(Glenn Gaesser)称,该计划设计的运动强度很大,但还在大多数人可以接受的范围内。受试女性每周要在实验室的跑步机上完成三次走步锻炼,每次30分钟,且节奏须保持在她们最大耐力80%的水平。They continued the program for 12 weeks, with the scientists repeating the original fitness and other tests every month during that time.整个锻炼计划持续了12周,在此期间,科学家们每月都对受试者们进行一次与开始时一样的健身指标复查。At the end of 12 weeks, the women were all significantly more aerobically fit than they had been at the start. But many were fatter. Almost 70 percent of the women had added at least some fat mass during the program, and several had gained as much as 10 pounds, most of which was from fat, not added muscle.在第12周结束时,这些女性的有氧能力均比开始时显著改善,但其中有不少人更胖了。在整个研究过程中,有近70%的女性体脂肪量增加,有几个人体重增量达4.5千克,且其中大部分是脂肪而非肌肉的增加。A few of the women, though, had lost that much fat or more, and quite a few had remained at the same weight as at the start of the regimen.不过,仍有少数女性减掉了等量甚至更多的脂肪,还有相当一部分女性的体重与研究开始时持平。At this point, the researchers returned to the data from the first day of the study, to determine whether any obvious differences existed between the women who subsequently gained or lost weight. “Some past studies of dieting had indicated that women who weigh more at the beginning” of a weight-loss program “tend to lose more weight during the program,” Dr. Gaesser said.这时,研究人员回过头来审视研究第一天时获得的数据,想要确定后来体重增加或减少的女性之间是否存在任何明显的差异。盖瑟士说:“既往进行的一些有关节食的研究表明”,在减肥计划“开始时体重较重的女性更容易在锻炼期间减肥”。But the researchers found no correlation in this case between a woman’s weight at the start and end of the study. In fact, the scientists found no connection between any of the original parameters of health and fitness and the women’s responses to the exercise program.但在该研究中,研究人员们发现受试女性研究开始时与结束时的体重间并没有这种相关性。事实上,科学家们发现,这些女性在研究开始时的任何一项健康和健身参数与锻炼计划对她们的效果都没有关联。But looking deeper into their data, they discovered one interesting indicator: Those women who were losing weight after four weeks of exercise tended to continue to lose weight, while the others did not.但随着更加深入地研究数据,他们发现了一个有趣的指征:经过四周的锻炼体重有所减轻的女性在后续的锻炼中往往更容易继续减肥,而在其他人身上则并非如此。“What that means in practical terms is that someone who wants to lose weight with exercise” should step on the bathroom scale after a month, Dr. Gaesser said. If at that point your weight remains stubbornly unchanged or has increased, “look closely at your diet and other activities,” he said.“其实际指导意义就是,如果你想要依靠运动减肥,”就应该在锻炼一个月后去浴室里称一称体重,”盖瑟士说。要是此时你的体重还是不见减轻或者反而更重了,“你就得好好注意下你的饮食和其他活动了。”While this study didn’t track the women’s eating and movement habits away from the lab, it is likely that those who gained weight began eating more and moving less when they weren’t on the tmills, “probably without meaning to,” Dr. Gaesser said.这项研究并没有对受试者们的饮食和实验室之外的运动习惯进行追踪,但盖瑟士认为,那些在锻炼后体重增加的女性很可能是食量也随之增加了,而且在跑步机锻炼以外的时间里,她们的运动量更少了,“虽然这应该也不是存心的。”Of course, the study was fairly short-term. It also did not involve men, although some past studies indicate that men, like women, frequently add fat mass after starting to exercise.当然,这项研究的时间相当短,而且也没有涉及到男性,不过此前有一些研究表明,男性和女性一样经常出现在运动后体脂肪量反而增加的情况。Still, the results, while sobering in some respects, also provide encouragement. By deploying a bathroom scale and discipline, along with exercise, you may well lose weight, Dr. Gaesser said.尽管在某些方面,这些研究结果让人觉得减肥大计形势严峻,但它们也为人们指明了希望的方向。盖瑟士表示,锻炼身体,严格自律,加上一只放在浴室里的体重计,你完全可能实现减肥。Even more important, the women in the study were much fitter after four months of exercise, and Dr. Gaesser said “fitness matters far more for health than how much you weigh.”更重要的是,在四个月的锻炼后,参与研究的这些女性的体质都大大改善了。盖瑟士说:“健身的意义更多地在于让你更健康,而不是单纯地要改变体重的那几个数字。” /201412/351176In between running one of the world’s largest charitable agencies and acting as Microsoft’s technology advisor, Bill Gates manages to find a significant chunk of time to books, both long and short.在运转着全球最大的慈善基金会和担任微软(Microsoft)技术顾问的同时,比尔o盖茨还抽出大量时间阅读各种篇幅的书籍。Now Gates — who has been labeled a voracious er — has released a list of his favorite books of the year. Not all of them were released in 2014; some were published in past years, and one is still unreleased. All of the books, though, are standout s, according to the billionaire techie.作为一个如饥似渴的读者,盖茨列出了2014年他最喜爱的书籍名单。其中有些书并不是2014年开始发售的,有些是以前出版的,有一本则尚未出版。不过,用这位拥有亿万身家的高科技专家的话说,这些书都是非常出色的读物。Most are focused on business and the economy. While that wasn’t necessarily intentional, “that’s fitting in a year when Thomas Piketty’s ‘Capital in the Twenty-First Century’ put a big spotlight on inequality,” Gates wrote on his blog.盖茨推荐的大多是商业和经济类书籍,但并非刻意而为,“托马斯o皮凯蒂在《21世纪资本论》(Capital in the Twenty-First Century)里对贫富差距给予了强烈关注,在这样的一年里读这些书是很合适的,”盖茨在自己的客中如此写道。Here are Bill’s top five picks for 2014 (with extracts from his full review of each book).以下是盖茨在2014年最爱看的5本书(以及他对每本书的书评节选)。1. “Business Adventures,” by John Brooks1.《商业历险记》(Business Adventures),作者约翰o布鲁克斯Brooks’ collection was published in 1969 and remains one of Gates’ favorites. He re- it again this year, labeling it the “best business book I’ve ever .”约翰o布鲁克斯的文集出版于1969年,至今仍是盖茨最爱的书籍之一。今年他重读了这本书,并盛赞这本书是“我读过的最好的商业书籍”。“Shortly after we met, Warren Buffett loaned me this collection of New Yorker business articles from the 1950s and 1960s. I loved them as much as he did. Brooks’s insights about business have aged beautifully, and they are as true today as ever.”“我和巴菲特刚认识不久,他就把这本书借给了我。这本书收集了作者20世纪50至60年代在《纽约客》(New Yorker)杂志上发表的商业类文章。他和我都非常喜欢这本书。布鲁克斯的商业见解虽然年代久远,但是历久弥新。”2. “Capital in the Twenty-First Century,” by Thomas Piketty2.《21世纪资本论》(Capital in the Twenty-First Century),作者托马斯o皮凯蒂Piketty’s novel hit the shelves in August 2013 and sparked much discussion concerning income inequality throughout this year. Gates also got to sit down with Piketty after ing the non-fiction work to discuss the topic.皮凯蒂的这本著作于2013年8月上市,并在今年引发了关于收入不平等的热议。盖茨在读完这本纪实性著作后,还与作者坐在一起讨论了书中主题。“As I told him, although I have concerns about some of his secondary points and policy prescriptions, I agree with his most important conclusions: inequality is a growing problem and that governments should play a role in reducing it.”“我告诉皮凯蒂,虽然我比较关注书中一些次要观点和政策处方,但是我同意他最重要的结论:贫富差距是一个日趋严重的问题,各国政府应该有所作为,努力缩小贫富差距。”3. “How Asia Works,” by Joe Studwell3.《亚洲如何崛起》(How Asia Works),作者乔o斯塔威尔Studwell’s work, which was published in May this year, addresses how countries such as Japan, South Korea and China have continued to achieve high growth, and why other countries have failed to do the same.斯塔威尔的这部作品出版于今年5月,主要分析了日本、台湾、南韩和中国等亚洲国家和地区是如何持续实现高速的经济增长,而其他国家又为何无法振兴经济。“The agriculture section of the book was particularly insightful. It provided ample food for thought for me as well as the whole Agriculture team at our foundation. And it left us thinking about whether parts of the Asian model can apply in Africa.”“此书关于农业的章节可谓是真知灼见,为我和我们基金会的农业团队提供了充足的精神食粮,同时也启发我们思考:是否可以将部分亚洲经济模式用于非洲。”4. “The Rosie Effect,” by Graeme Simsion4.《萝西效应》(The Rosie Effect),作者格兰?辛溥生The only fiction work to make Gates’ list is a follow-up to Simsion’s “The Rosie Project.” The novel will be released on Dec. 31 this year, but Gates was able to snag an advanced copy from the author directly.这是盖茨书单上唯一的一本小说,是辛溥生所著《萝西的计划》(The Rosie Project)的续篇。该书将于今年12月31日正式出版,但是盖茨已经直接从作者手中拿到小说的预售版。“It’s a funny novel that also made me think about relationships: what makes them work and how we have to keep investing time and energy to make them better. A sweet, entertaining, and thought-provoking book.”“这本有趣的小说唤起了我对人际关系的思考:人际关系是如何建立起来的?我们要如何花时间和精力去改善这些关系?这是一本温馨、有趣并引人思考的书。”5. “Making the Modern World: Materials and Dematerialization,” by Vaclav Smil5. 《创建当代世界:材料及去材料化》(Making the Modern World: Materials and Dematerialization),作者:茨拉夫o斯米尔Smil’s books are a constant favorite of the Microsoft MSFT -1.50% founder — one of his books makes Gates’ list almost every year. “Making the Modern World” came out late last year and explores the global use of materials, from silicon to wood, and plastic.这位微软的创始人一直对斯米尔的书情有独钟—— 每年都会有一本他的书进入盖茨的书单。《创建当代世界》是去年出版的,探索的是从硅到木材再到塑料等材料的全球使用情况。“If anyone tries to tell you we’re using fewer materials, send him this book. With his usual skepticism and his love of data, Smil shows how our ability to make things with less material — say, soda cans that need less aluminum — makes them cheaper, which actually encourages more production.”“如果有人试图告诉你,我们现在用的材料减少了,就给他看这本书。这本书依然体现了斯米尔惯常的怀疑主义和对数据的迷恋。斯米尔在书中展示了,如果我们减少材料的使用(比如用更少的铝来生产易拉罐,)就可以降低成本,这实际上会鼓励更多的生产。” /201412/347710

The Chinese stock market rout in recent weeks has prompted the country’s government to act aggressively to stop the slide. If stocks continue to fall, that could erode consumer confidence in China and slow further the country’s aly weakening economy, which would have painful implications for the global economy.中国股市近几周的崩溃已促使政府采取积极措施以阻止下滑。如果股票继续下跌,将损害中国消费者的信心并使已然减速的经济增长进一步放缓,而这对于全球经济将影响惨痛。What has happened?发生了什么?Chinese stocks have surged almost unimpeded, more than doubling in the 12 months ending June 12. Millions of working-class and middle-class Chinese families bet heavily on stocks, often borrowing money to do so and further spurring the rise.中国股市曾一路飙升,在6月12日之前的一年里上涨了超过一倍。数百万中国的工薪阶层和中产阶级对股市下了重注,经常借钱炒股,而这也进一步刺激了上涨。But the rally defied fundamentals, prompting concerns of a bubble. Stocks rose even as the Chinese economy was slowing. While foreigners and domestic institutions bought shares in large companies with fairly stable businesses, working-class and middle-class families mainly bought inexpensive shares in small and medium-size companies, and kept buying these shares simply because they were rising. Weak balance sheets and chronic problems with corporate governance at many of these companies were swept aside.但上涨与经济基本面并不相符,催生了对于泡沫的担忧。股票在中国经济增速放缓之时仍在上涨。当外国投资者和国内的机构购买经营稳定的大型公司股票时,工薪阶层和中产阶级家庭购买价格较低的中小型公司股票,并因为这些股票的价格在上涨而不断购入。许多这些公司脆弱的资产负债表和长期的公司管理问题被搁置一边。In recent months, the Chinese stocks have experienced brief periods of weakness, as investors started to grow concerned that the market was getting overheated. The government, though, has regularly reassured investors, helping to steady the markets.最近几个月,中国股市经历了短暂的虚弱期,因为投资者对于市场过热的忧虑开始增加。即便如此,政府仍频繁地安抚投资者以稳定市场。Now, investors are losing faith. After a drop of more than 7 percent in the Shanghai and Shenzhen markets on June 26, the Chinese central bank responded the next day with an interest rate cut, saying it was acting to shore up the economy. A broad slide in stocks continued, prompting the government to take aggressive action.现在,投资者失去了信心。在6月26日沪深两市大跌超过7%后,中国的中央在第二天以下调利率作为回应,称这是为了提振经济。但股市持续大规模下跌,促使政府采取积极的行动。What is China doing about the sell-off?对于股价下跌,中国正在如何应对?Since June 25, the Chinese government has tried a series of policy measures to halt the slide. It has cut interest rates, made more loans available to buyers of stocks and promised to investigate anyone involved in market manipulation.自6月25日起,中国政府已经采取了一系列政策措施以阻止下跌。政府降低了利率,增加了投资者可获得的贷款,并承诺调查任何涉嫌操纵市场的人。The government made its boldest move on July 4, orchestrating a plan for 21 brokerages to put .4 billion in a fund to buy the shares of large companies. The Shanghai and Shenzhen stock exchanges suspended 28 pending initial public offerings and said that all deposits paid for shares would be returned to the would-be buyers, freeing up cash that could be invested in existing stocks. Government agencies announced on July 5 that they would lend money to brokerages so that the brokerages could lend the money to investors who wanted to buy shares.政府在7月4日采取了最为勇敢的举措,策划了一项计划,将21家券公司将出资194亿美元(1200亿人民币)建立基金购买大型公司的股票。上海和深圳券交易所暂停了28个新股的发行计划,并称将向未来的购买者退还所有已付的定金,以释放更多现金投入到现有的股票中。政府机构还在7月5日宣布将向券公司提供贷款,之后券公司将可以向有意愿购买股票的投资者提供资金。Following the move, large company shares held most of their value on July 6. But the shares of small and medium-size companies, widely held by retail investors, kept falling.救市举措之后,大部分大型公司的股票价格在7月6日止跌。但大量散户投资者持有的中小型公司股票仍持续下跌。How exposed are foreign investors?外国投资者受影响程度如何?The Chinese markets have only recently started to open up to outside investors, so overseas players are not heavily exposed to the downturn. Such investors own an estimated 4 percent of Chinese shares. And they have been heavily concentrated in large companies, which have not been as volatile as their smaller brethren.中国股市才刚刚向外国投资者开放,所以海外买家并未受到下跌的严重影响。这类投资者持有大约4%的中国股票。而这些股票高度集中在并不像中小型公司那般不稳定的大型公司。But stock market routs can quickly sp. The Hong Kong market withstood previous bouts of selling, but fell on July 6 after the Chinese government’s moves. And foreigners have invested heavily in the Hong Kong market, often as a proxy for mainland China.但是股市的下跌能够很快蔓延。香港股市抵挡住了此前的几轮抛售,但在7月6日政府的行动之后下挫。而且外国投资者在经常作为内地股市代言者的香港股市大量投资。Will China’s stock market troubles affect the global economy?中国股市的问题会影响全球经济吗?Possibly.这是有可能的。China has the world’s second-largest economy. It is the biggest importer of commodities, from countries like Australia and Brazil. China is also a huge buyer of factory equipment and other machinery in Germany and other places. If the Chinese stock market slump damages consumer confidence, it could lead to a slowdown in those purchases.中国是世界第二大经济体,也是澳大利亚和巴西等国商品的最大进口国。中国也是德国以及其他国家重要的工厂设备和其他机械的买家。如果中国股市的下跌损害了消费者信心,这将导致此类采购的减缓。The stock market weakness, should it sp to the Chinese economy over the long term, could prompt Beijing to reassess its overseas loans and investments. Many countries, industries and companies have come to depend on Chinese money to fund their own growth. But Chinese outbound investment could still increase if companies and individuals seek safety overseas.股市的衰弱如果长期蔓延到整个中国经济,可能促使北京重新审视其海外贷款和投资。许多国家的行业和公司的发展都依赖中国的资金。但是如果公司和个人到海外寻求资金安全,中国的境外投资可能还会上升。 /201507/385251We’ll always have Paris. And as long as there are Americans who long to reinvent themselves, we’ll always have books about Paris — books that still mention Hemingway and #173;pigeon-gray rooftops, lovers in cafes and swirling Gauloise smoke. If there’s anything new to be said about the city, or a surprising new way in which to describe it, it’s as rare as a helpful French bureaucrat — at least in the latest batch of books in which Paris is a main character. Kate Betts, at least, got what she went there for. And now, almost 30 years later, she shares her coming-of-age in a self-assured book that should be given to every college senior with a Doisneau poster (or Chanel ad) on her wall.巴黎无孔不入。只要有渴望重塑自我的美国人在,关于巴黎的书就不会中断。那些书依旧提到海明威,提到鸽灰色的屋顶、咖啡馆里的情侣与高卢牌(Gauloise)香烟。关于这座城市,可说的新鲜事,或者谈论这些新鲜事的方法,就像乐于助人的法国官员,少之又少——这至少适用于最新一批围绕巴黎而写的书。不过,凯特·贝茨(Kate Betts)在巴黎得到了她想要的。30年快过去了,她在充满信心的新书中分享了自己的成长经历。而这本书应该被送给墙上挂着摄影师杜瓦诺(Doisneau)海报或香奈儿广告的每一位大四女孩。The intensity of the sights and flavors of Paris — not to mention “the shock of history” — Betts felt there on vacation #173;before entering Princeton shook the preppy New Yorker. After graduation in 1986, while her friends were preparing to enter law school, she rebelled by heading to Paris without a plan. Although she’d envisioned becoming a war correspondent, she never made it past the city that was home to the fashion and culture she most admired. Betts wanted to become French, and, in this transformation, to learn who she was.进入普林斯顿大学前的那个假期,贝茨曾到巴黎游览,光是随处可见的美景与风情,就令她这个学生气又学院风的纽约客感到震惊,更不必说那种“历史的震撼”。1986年,贝茨从大学毕业。她的朋友们都在为上法学院做准备,她却叛逆地来到巴黎,一点计划都没做。贝茨曾梦想成为一名战地记者,但巴黎这座城市有她最爱的时尚与文化,这个念头从没超出过这个城市。贝茨想变得更加“法国”,在这种转换中,她想了解自己。And so she set about cracking the codes of manners, language and style that so govern the French. Her teachers ranged from the slang-spouting children of the family with whom she first lived to the chic friend who shook her head in disbelief when Betts triumphantly displayed a cantaloupe-colored Chanel tweed jacket she’d scored at a sample sale. (“Wear Chanel when you can afford to buy it in the color that suits you. .#8200;.#8200;. That is the essence of style,” Betts meekly deduced.) And, of course, there are men. But they’re more guides than teachers, especially her love, Hervé, who shows her “douce France” on weekends.她开始破解主宰法国人言谈举止和风格的符码。寄住家庭里满嘴俗语的小孩和识破她在特卖场上买到的冒牌香奈儿青绿色粗花呢外套的时髦朋友,都成为了她的老师。(“能买得起香奈儿的时候才买香奈儿,而且要买颜色适合你的……这是时尚的精髓,”贝茨温顺地归纳道。)当然,巴黎还有男人。但他们更像导游而不是老师,特别是她的爱人艾赫维(Hervé),周末总是带她去参观“亲爱的法兰西”。Hervé takes her on a wild-boar hunt in Brittany, granting her access to a closed society. It’s her article about that day that grants her access to another closed society. John Fairchild, the publisher of the fashion bibles Women’s Wear Daily and W, was impressed by her ability to infiltrate the aristo event; it was precisely the kind of story he wanted in his new men’s magazine, M. And here her real education begins. The stories of smoky parties blasting Les Rita Mitsouko quickly drop off in the book’s second half, as Betts’s future clicks into focus. She sets about defining herself through work, and her work is fashion.艾赫维带她去布列塔尼半岛参加疯狂的野猪狩猎,带她进入了一个封闭的小社会。而她写下的关于那天经历的文章,让她进入了又一个封闭的圈子。风尚圣经《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily)和《W》的出版人约翰·费尔柴尔德(John Fairchild)欣赏她打入贵族圈子参加活动的能力。贝茨的文章正是他新办的男刊《M》所需要的故事。对贝茨来说,她接受的真正的教育是从这里开始的。在这本书的后半部分,她不再讲述那些烟雾缭绕,响着“丽塔蝴蝶夫人”(Les Rita Mitsouko)乐队歌曲的聚会,她的未来变得清晰起来。她开始在工作中找到自己,她的工作就是时尚。Not only does Betts have to navigate the insular, highly codified fashion world, she also has to survive the hazing at the office, where Fairchild might grill her on the best place to go for sole meunière, or the #173;socialite-courting bureau chief might rouse her on a Sunday morning, barking at her to find out who the next Dior designer will be. Her exploits are heaven for anyone who remembers the days when “#8202;‘luxury’ was rarely used in tandem with ‘fashion,’ and the word ‘brand’ referred to Crest and Coca-Cola, not clothing labels.” She does a friend a favor by visiting the studio of an unknown shoe designer whose ugly, fish-scale-covered stilettos she mentions in a small roundup, mostly out of politesse (Christian Louboutin). She attends an exclusive preview in Yves Saint Laurent’s atelier with the frail designer, perfectly describing his “zigzaggy smile.” She follows a hunch about an unheard-of Viennese designer whose minimalist aesthetic is the opposite of the poufy chic of the moment (Helmut Lang). And she discovers the meaning of “fashion moment” at one of the first Martin Margiela shows. Betts remembers what she wore just as clearly. Her outfits tell the story too, as she graduates from Kooka#239; T-shirts and chinos to Claude Montana leather jackets.贝茨不仅要在如海岛般孤立、有自己规则的时尚界中探索,还要在办公室政治中生存,在这里,费尔柴尔德可能让她变成一道法国名菜——干煎塌目鱼,热衷讨好上流社会的总编也可能在周日上午训斥她,逼她去查下一任迪奥(Dior)的总设计师是谁。贝茨经历的冒险对那些仍然记得“‘奢侈’很少同‘时尚’挂钩,‘品牌’是指佳洁士、可口可乐,而不是装牌子的时代”的人来说,已经是天堂了。她受朋友之请,去拜访一个无名鞋履设计师的工作室,后来只是出于礼貌才在一篇综述短文中提到这位设计师丑陋的、包着鱼皮的细高跟鞋。这位设计师不是别人,是克里斯提·布鲁托(Christian Louboutin)。她去伊夫·圣·洛朗(Yves Saint Laurent)的工作室做独家专访,精确地描述这位憔悴的设计师有着“七扭八歪的笑容”。她预感一位名不见经传的维也纳设计师肯定会成功,他的极简主义美学和当时盛行的厚重风格正好相反,这位设计师是海尔姆特·朗(Helmut Lang)。她还在早期的马丁·马吉拉(Martin Margiela)走秀上发现了“时尚时刻”的意义。贝茨记得那时自己穿的是什么。她自己的打扮也是这场历险的一部分,从Kooka#239; T恤衫和棉布裤,到克劳德·蒙塔纳(Claude Montana)的皮外套。Her rise at Fairchild is brisk. But her Paris dream — the apartment with a working fireplace, the designer wardrobe, the fluency — comes true at a cost to her sense of self. A former classmate calls to catch up the night the American air campaign against Baghdad began. He had covered the fall of Communism and the famine in Somalia; Betts realized that she had written about stretch denim and the bottled water at the Ritz. It was time to leave: “I had come to Paris to expand my world, to understand another culture in the intimate way you can only when you immerse yourself in it. But somehow, my world had gotten smaller.”在费尔柴尔德手下,贝茨升职很快。她的巴黎梦——有壁炉的公寓、充满设计师作品的衣橱、流利的法语——终于成真了,但以她自我认同的流失为代价。美国发动对巴格达空袭的那天晚上,她曾经的同学打电话讯问近况。这位同学曾报道过共产主义的覆灭与索马里饥荒。贝茨意识到,自己写的都是些丹宁牛仔的弹性与丽兹酒店(Ritz)的瓶装水之类。现在,是时候离开了:“当初我来到巴黎是为了拓展自己的世界,为了以亲密的方式理解另一种文化——把整个人都沉浸在里面。但不知怎么,我的世界越来越小。”As such two-sentence epiphanies show, Betts is a magazine journalist to the core. Although this style, coupled with her WASPy reserve, makes for a relatively unrevealing memoir in today’s market, her emotional hindsight is admirably clear and honest.这种三言两语的顿悟表明,本质上,贝茨是一名杂志记者。尽管这种风格,再加上她那种美国白人清教徒式的矜持,使得这本回忆录显得有所保留,但她充满情感的事后反思仍然极为清晰诚实。Fashion and self-examination — froth and wisdom — might seem like odd bookfellows, but Betts brings them together with winning confidence. You wouldn’t have wanted to work with the ambitious, pretentious young Katherine at Fairchild (she overheard the bitchy grumbling and plowed ahead, not stopping until she landed at Vogue and then became the editor of Harper’s Bazaar), but today, you’d definitely want to sit next to her on the banquette for a long lunch at Le Voltaire. Young worshipers of Paris — and of fashion magazines — are in for an education. Those of us who’ve been there and back will find it entertaining and sneakily poignant ing on the flight to Charles de Gaulle.时尚与自省,琐事与智慧,这些可能有点像是奇怪的组合,但贝茨带着迷人的自信把它们放在一起。你可能不想和当年费尔柴尔德手下那个野心勃勃又年轻气盛的凯特一起工作(她偷听到有人恶毒地抱怨她,但一直不停步地前进,直到后来去了《Vogue》,最后当上《时尚芭莎》[Harper’s Bazzaar]的主编),但你肯定想在伏尔泰酒店(Le Voltaire)的长条软椅上和现在的她共进午餐。对于巴黎的和时尚杂志的年轻崇拜者们而言,读这本书是一种学习。我们这些去过那里然后又回来的人,不妨在飞往戴高乐机场的途中打开这本书,你一定会觉得它非常有趣,但带着隐隐的辛酸。 /201506/381507

It#39;s the biggest event in the social calendar.这是社交日历上最为盛大的节日。And last night, a galaxy of stylish stars, including some of the world#39;s most beautiful women, walked the London Coliseum red carpet to attend the British Fashion Awards.在昨晚,一光鲜明亮的明星,其中不乏世界上最美丽的女人们,踏上了伦敦大剧院的红毯参加英国时尚大奖。Style icons such as Victoria Beckham, Cara Delevingne and Alexa Chung looked picture perfect as they faced a gauntlet of flashbulbs.时尚风标们——维多利亚·贝克汉姆,卡拉·迪瓦伊和艾里珊·钟——他们面对这闪光灯的恶意还是拍出了完美无瑕的照片。From expert make-up artists to nail technicians - and even handbag carriers - the A-listers called in their loyal entourage to ensure they were y for their close ups.从专业级的化妆设计师,到美甲技术人员,甚至还有手提包运营商——这些好莱坞大腕们叫来了他们忠诚的一流级团队,确保他们为这次走秀做好了充分的准备。The fashionable face that drew the biggest applause was Victoria Beckham. The womenswear designer pipped Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney to the Best Brand award and no one could be more thrilled at her incredible achievements in the fashion industry than her proud husband.吸引了最多欢呼喝的当属时尚界宠儿维多利亚·贝克汉姆。女装设计师亚历山大·麦昆和斯特拉·麦卡特尼为她颁发最佳品牌奖,获得时尚界这项无与伦比的成就,没有人比她的丈夫更为她骄傲自豪了。David told MailOnline: #39;It#39;s amazing, she#39;s amazing. I#39;m very, very proud of her.#39;贝克汉姆告诉《每日邮报》:“简直太棒了,她太棒了。我真的非常,非常为她感到骄傲。”Leading the style set was Alexa Chung. Although she was not nominated for a British Style Award (she has aly won three consecutive gongs), the model and muse#39;s look did not disappoint.领导了风尚设计的是艾里珊·钟。虽然在英国风尚大奖上,她并没有被提名(她已经连续获得了三个奖章),这位缪斯模特看上去并不失落。The IT girl opted for a silver Emilia Wickstead dress and quirky bag by Charlotte Olympia - because it reminded her of her favourite childhood toy: Pogs.这位IT女孩选择了银色的艾米利亚·威克斯第德裙,配上夏洛特·奥林匹亚新潮的包——因为这唤起了她童年最喜欢的玩具画片的记忆。Another world-renowned style icon to grace the red carpet - also wearing Emilia Wickstead - was Olivia Palermo. The American socialite and former star of The City gushed about British fashion.#39;另一位举世闻名的时尚宠儿在红毯上尽显优雅——她也穿着艾米利亚·威克斯第德——她就是奥利维亚·巴勒莫。这名美国社交名流,同时也是美剧《都市》的前影星向英国时尚界进发。This is absolutely the most impressive time for British fashion, it#39;s really influencing the world, especially British music.“对于英国时尚界来说,这绝对是让人印象深刻的一刻,它正影响着世界,尤其是英国音乐。”WINNERS OF THE BRITISH FASHION AWARDS 20142014英国时尚大奖获奖名单Brand of the Year年度最佳品牌Victoria Beckham维多利亚·贝克汉姆Model of the Year年度最佳模特Cara DelevingneCara DelevingneBritish Style Award英国风尚大奖Emma Watson艾玛·沃森International Designer国际设计师大奖Nicolas Ghesquièr尼古拉#8226;盖斯基埃Womenswear Designer of the Year年度女装设计大奖ErdemErdemMenswear Designer of the Year年度男装设计大奖J.W. AndersonJ.W.安德森Emerging Womenswear Designer女装设计新人奖Marques#39; Almeida品牌“阿尔梅达Emerging Menswear Designer男装设计新人奖Craig Green克雷格绿Emerging Accessory Designer配饰设计新人奖PrismPrismRed Carpet Designer红毯设计大奖Alexander McQueen亚历山大·麦克奎恩New Establishment年度新创大奖Simone Rocha西蒙·罗卡Establishment创意大奖PreenPreenAccessory Designer of the Year年度配饰设计奖Anya Hindmarch安雅芝Special Recognition优秀奖Chris Moore克里斯#8226;尔Special Recognition Award特别荣誉奖Anna Wintour OBEAnna Wintour OBEIsabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator年度最佳创意Edward EnninfulEdward Enninful /201412/349154

He was supposed to be the dictator no one would ever miss. Treacherous and volatile, Muammer Gaddafi had far less diplomatic value than his neighbour, President Hosni Mubarak of Egypt, a dependable western ally. He did not compare to Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali of Tunisia, whose obsessive secularism had its attraction, too. And he could not compete even with Yemen’s Ali Abdullah Saleh, who at least had a sharp sense of humour.他理应是无人怀念的独裁者。穆阿迈尔#8226;卡扎菲(Muammer Gaddafi)狡诈且喜怒无常,他的外交价值远远低于其邻国埃及前总统、西方的可靠盟友胡斯尼#8226;穆巴拉克(Hosni Mubarak)。他也比不上突尼斯的宰因#8226;阿比丁#8226;本#8226;阿里(Zine al-Abidine Ben Ali),后者对世俗主义的注重有其吸引力。他甚至都比不上也门的阿里#8226;阿卜杜拉#8226;萨利赫(Ali Abdullah Saleh),后者至少有很强的幽默感。By the time the Arab revolutions erupted in 2011, Gaddafi had not a single friend left in the Middle East, and only a few beyond. Even though he gave up his mischief in later years — surrendering his arsenal of weapons of mass destruction, for example — no one knew whether or when he would be back to his old terrorist tricks. So as his troops prepared for an assault on the eastern city of Benghazi — whose people had risen against him — Nato bombs rained down on them, paving the way for the dictator’s demise. The reaction was, broadly, good riddance.到2011年阿拉伯革命爆发时,卡扎菲在中东没有一个朋友(在地区以外有几个)。即使在执政后期他不再制造祸端(例如放弃他的大规模杀伤性武器),但没人知道他是否——或者何时——会重拾老一套的恐怖主义把戏。因此,当他的军队准备进攻东部城市班加西(那里的人民奋起反抗他)时,北约(NATO)的炸弹像雨点般落向了他们,为这位独裁者的灭亡铺平了道路。世人对此的普遍反应是,他走了最好。And yet, barely four years on, there are many in Europe who quietly wish the mad colonel — killed by rebels in late 2011 — was still running things in Tripoli. Such is EU angst over the Mediterranean migrant crisis — where as many as 1,200 people have drowned crossing to Europe in recent weeks — that Gaddafi is held up as the one man able to keep boat people away from European shores.然而,仅仅4年后,许多欧洲人却在默默希望这位疯子上校(2011年末被叛军处死)仍在的黎波里管理这个国家。欧盟对地中海移民危机的焦虑(最近几周,多达1200名偷渡欧洲的移民在地中海溺亡)如此严重,以至于有人把卡扎菲抬出来,称他本来是唯一能够让船民远离欧洲海岸的人。There is plenty of scope for regret when one looks back at the Arab uprisings, and particularly at the catastrophe that has befallen Libya, which is riven by sectarian strife. But the tragic loss of life at sea in recent weeks is no excuse to be nostalgic about Gaddafi, or to long for the return of his iron grip.当回首阿拉伯起义时,有很多令人遗憾的地方,尤其是降临利比亚的灾难,这个国家正被教派冲突撕裂。但是,最近几周发生的移民葬身地中海的悲剧,绝不是怀念卡扎菲、或者渴望他的铁腕统治回归的借口。Yes, Libya is a failed state and a haven for human traffickers. It is a mess that no one should think will be resolved by the current UN-backed peace process between its warring militias. There is no one in charge that the EU can credibly work with to stem the flow of illegal migration.没错,利比亚是一个失败国家、蛇头们的天堂。没人会认为当前联合国在各派武装分子之间斡旋的和平进程能解决这个国家的烂摊子。利比亚没有任何掌权者可让欧盟与其展开靠谱的合作,共同阻止非法移民流动。But it is useful to remember that Nato intervened in Libya in March 2011 to prevent another unfolding tragedy: the likely massacre of hundreds of thousands of Benghazi residents. The European and Arab mistake was to overestimate the will or ability of Libyans, in the aftermath of Gaddafi’s fall, to put the broken pieces of their country back together.但值得记住的是,2011年3月北约对利比亚的干预是为了阻止另一起即将发生的悲剧:数十万班加西居民可能遭到屠杀。欧洲和阿拉伯国家的错误在于,他们高估了利比亚人民在卡扎菲倒台后重建国家的意志或能力。Left on their own after a bloody revolt in which the state collapsed and everyone took up arms, they embraced their freedom with bullets as much as ballots. A fair question to ask is whether more could have been done to help them.结果,利比亚人在经历一场血腥的起义(其间政府崩溃,人人都拿起武器)后陷入“自找出路”的境地,他们用子弹和投票箱来拥抱自己的自由。中肯的问题是,我们是否本应做更多事来帮助他们?There’s also cause to regret the world’s betrayal of Syria, the origin of most of the migrants who crossed the Mediterranean last year. When more than 8m of them have been displaced from their homes in the war waged by President Bashar al-Assad and another 4m are refugees [SOURCE OF NUMBERS?], why are we shocked to see some of them braving death for the fleeting hope of a better future in Europe?世界对叙利亚的背叛同样令人遗憾。去年大多数横渡地中海的移民都来自叙利亚。当逾800万叙利亚人在总统巴沙尔#8226;阿萨德(Bashar al-Assad)发动的战争中流离失所,另有400万人沦为难民时,为什么我们会震惊于他们中的一些人愿意为了到欧洲寻觅更美好未来的渺茫希望而冒险渡海?In any case, Gaddafi was not as useful on illegal migration as he liked to advertise. True, on his good days he would shut the spigot by terrorising or paying off the tribes that facilitated the boats’ passage; sometimes he agreed to joint patrols with Italians, whose coasts the migrants aim for. But, on his bad days, he flung the doors open.无论如何,卡扎菲在非法移民问题上并不真像他喜欢吹嘘的那样有用。没错,在他心血来潮的时候,他会通过恐吓或收买那些为船只通行提供便利的部落来堵住移民流动;有时,他会同意与意大利人联合巡逻(意大利海岸是移民的登陆目标)。但当他心情不好的时候,他会把所有大门敞开。For him destitute refugees — at that time mostly from sub-Saharan Africa — were a card he cynically bargained with, warning in 2009, for example, that he could turn Europe “black”.对卡扎菲来说,赤贫的难民(当时主要来自撒哈拉以南非洲地区)是他手中一张牌,可以用来为一己私利讨价还价。例如,他在2009年警告称,他可以将欧洲变成“黑色”。Rumour has it that by 2011, he had worked out an understanding — probably with Italy — that so long as he was welcomed in European capitals, he would help keep the migrants away. That changed when Nato launched air strikes in March 2011. A government spokesman threatened to retaliate by opening the floodgates. Trafficking was a lucrative business for Libyans, he said, and the government would do nothing to stop it.有传言称,到了2011年,他已经(很可能是与意大利)达成谅解:只要欧洲各国首都欢迎他,他将帮助欧洲挡住移民。当北约在2011年3月发动空袭时,这一默契发生了变化。一位政府发言人威胁要打开“闸门”以进行报复。他称,贩运人口对利比亚人是一份有利可图的生意,政府不会采取措施进行阻止。Back then it was a relief that Gaddafi’s authority lasted only a few months longer. It should still be: given how much Libyans have suffered since, surely we should wish them better than another Gaddafi.当时让人宽慰的是,卡扎菲政权仅仅再撑了几个月。世人依然应该感到宽慰:鉴于自那以来利比亚人民遭受了那么多苦难,我们当然应该希望他们得到比又一个卡扎菲好一点的领导人。 /201505/373696

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