时间:2019年07月18日 07:20:46

The U.S. government will publish sweeping new rules on Tuesday requiring chain restaurants and large vending machine operators to disclose calorie counts on s to make people more aware of the risks of obesity posed by fatty, sugary foods.美国政府于25日出台一项食品行业新规定,要求连锁餐馆和大型自动售货机商家在菜单中标明食物所含的卡路里,以提醒人们高脂高糖食物会带来肥胖的风险。;Obesity is a national epidemic that affects millions of Americans,; Food and Drug Administration Commissioner Margaret Hamburg told reporters on a conference call on Monday.“肥胖已成为一项全国通病,影响了数百万美国人,”美国国家食品和药物(Food and Drug Administration)专员玛格利特·汉伯格(Margaret Hamburg)在24日的电话会议上告诉记者。;Strikingly, Americans eat and drink about a third of their calories away from home.;“美国人摄入的卡路里中有约三分之一来自于在外就餐,这很令人惊讶。”The FDA#39;s new rules, which are part of the 2010 Affordable Care Act, set a national standard for restaurant chains with 20 or more outlets.食品和药物出台的这项新规定是2010年美国平价医疗法案(Affordable Care Act)的一部分,适用于全美范围内拥有20家及以上连锁店的餐厅。Under the rules, calories must be displayed on all s and boards. Other nutritional information - including calories from fat, cholesterol, sugars and protein - must be made available in writing upon request.它规定所有的菜单和菜单板上必须标明卡路里数。其他营养成分的信息如脂肪、胆固醇、糖类和蛋白质所含的卡路里信息,如有要求,也必须能够以书面形式提供。The new calorie rule covers meals at sit-down restaurants, take-out food, bakery items, ice cream from an ice-cream store and pizza, which will be labeled by the slice and whole pie. Seasonal items, such as a Thanksgiving dinner, daily specials and standard condiments will be exempt.餐馆内就餐、外卖、面包店内、冰淇淋店内的食物都必须遵循这一规则,比萨也会按每片或整张标记卡路里;但这一规则不包括时令性菜单如感恩节晚餐、每日特卖和标准调味品。The final rule, unlike a 2011 proposal, includes movie theaters, amusement parks and alcoholic beverages served in restaurants, but not drinks mixed or served at a bar.最终版本与2011年提案有所不同,它包含了电影院、游乐园内的食物和餐厅提供的酒精饮料,但不包括调制饮品和酒吧提供的饮品。Restaurants have one year and vending machine operators have two years to comply with the new rules following publication in the Federal Register.联邦公报公布后,餐厅的调整期限为一年,而售卖机为两年。Panera B Co in 2010 became the first company to voluntarily display calorie information at all its cafes nationwide. Others, including McDonald#39;s Corp and Starbucks Corp, followed suit.2010年帕尼罗面包连锁餐厅(Panera B Co)成为第一家自愿在全国范围内的咖啡馆里标明卡路里的公司。其他公司像麦当劳和星巴克也效仿了这一做法。The agency said it amended its proposals after considering more than 1,100 comments from industry, public health advocates and consumers.管理机构称,食品行业、公共卫生倡议者和消费者对此提案提出了一千一百多条建议,他们在考虑过这些提议之后进行了修订。It narrowed the scope to clearly focus on restaurant-type food. Still, there are nuances: Foods such as deli meat bought at a grocery store counter will be excluded. But the rules will apply to food eaten in grocery stores, such as meals purchased at in-house cafes.它缩小了针对的食品范围,仅限于餐厅类食物。但这一概念本身也有细微差别:不包含像是在杂货店柜台买的熟食这一类食物。但在杂货店里吃的食物,如在咖啡馆里买了在店里吃就需要遵循这项规则。Hamburg acknowledged that calorie counts for pizza slices and many other foods made on the premises will vary. Restaurants may draw on databases, cookbooks and food package labels to calculate calories.汉伯格承认不同店里披萨片和其他食物所标注的卡路里会有所不同。餐厅可以根据数据库、食谱和食物包装上的标签来计算卡路里。The restaurant industry has supported a national standard for years and welcomed the changes.餐厅行业多年来持这一规则成为全国标准,并欢迎这一变化。;We believe that the Food and Drug Administration has positively addressed the areas of greatest concern,; said Dawn Sweeney, chief executive of the National Restaurant Association, which represents 990,000 restaurant and food-service outlets.美国国家餐馆协会(the National Restaurant Association)代表了99万家餐厅和食品专卖店。其首席执行官道恩·斯威尼(Dawn Sweeney)说,“我们相信国家食品和药物已经积极地处理了这一广受关注的问题”。Not all industry groups were satisfied.并不是所有行业都满意这一规则。;We are disappointed that the FDA#185;s final rules will capture grocery stores, and impose such a large and costly regulatory burden on our members,; said Peter Larkin, president and CEO of the National Grocers Association.美国食品杂货商协会(the National Grocers Association)主席兼任首席执行官彼得·拉金(Peter Larkin)说,“国家食品和药物出台的这项规则的最终版本将包括杂货店,会给我们的成员施加沉重的规则负担和经济压力”。National Automatic Merchandising Association, representing the food and refreshment vending industry, said it will ;reserve judgment; on the impact on the industry, but said that two years was insufficient ;implementation time;, especially for small businesses.美国自动售货协会(National Automatic Merchandising Association)作为食品和甜点售卖行业的代表,表示对这个规则所带来的影响持“保留”态度,但称两年不足以让企业尤其是小企业适应这一规则。The rules aim to close a gap in the 1990 Nutrition Labeling and Education Act, which established nutrition labeling on most foods, but not restaurant or other y-to-eat foods.1990颁布的《营养标识和教育法》(Nutrition Labeling and Education Act)规定大多数食物必须标明营养成分,但没包含餐厅和其他即食食物。这项规则旨在对此进行改善。Katie Bengston, Panera#39;s nutrition manager, said labeling has not affected its business: ;We did not notice a jump in sales from higher calorie items to lower calorie items.;帕奈拉冷饮西餐厅(Panera)营养经理凯蒂·本斯顿(Katie Bengston)则表示在菜单上标明卡路里这一变化对生意没有影响,“我们没有看到高卡路里食物销售额猛降和低卡路里食物销量猛增”。 /201412/346027

Jonathan Franzen’s fans will have plenty to next year. There’s a forthcoming biography of the author by Philip Weinstein, an English professor at Swarthmore College. And in September, Farrar, Straus amp; Giroux will release Mr. Franzen’s fifth novel, “Purity.”明年,乔纳森·弗兰岑(Jonathan Franzen)的粉丝们有福了。他的传记即将出版,作者是斯沃思莫尔学院的英语教授菲利普·温斯坦(Philip Weinstein)。明年9月,法勒、斯特劳斯amp;吉鲁出版社(Farrar, Straus amp; Giroux)还将出版弗兰岑的第五部小说《普丽蒂》(Purity)。Jonathan Galassi, president and publisher of Farrar, Straus amp; Giroux, described “Purity” as a multigenerational American epic that spans decades and continents. The story centers on a young woman named Purity Tyler, or Pip, who doesn’t know who her father is and sets out to uncover his identity. The narrative stretches from contemporary America to South America to East Germany before the collapse of the Berlin Wall, and hinges on the mystery of Pip’s family history and her relationship with a charismatic hacker and whistleblower.法勒、斯特劳斯amp;吉鲁出版社的主席、出版人乔纳森·加拉西(Jonathan Galassi)说,《普丽蒂》是一部纵贯数十年、横跨几个大陆、贯穿几代人的美国史诗。主人公是一个名叫普丽蒂·泰勒(Purity Tyler,小名皮普[Pip])的年轻女子,她不知道自己的父亲是谁,动身去查清他的身份。故事从当代美国追溯到南美以及柏林墙倒塌前的东德,围绕皮普家族的神秘历史以及她与一位颇具领袖魅力的黑客与揭发者的关系展开。Like Mr. Franzen’s best-sellers “Freedom” and “The Corrections,” which have each sold well over a million copies, his new novel tackles big themes like sexual politics, love and parenthood. But the novel also marks a stylistic departure for Mr. Franzen, Mr. Galassi said.弗兰岑的小说《自由》(Freedom)和《纠正》(The Corrections)都卖了100多万册。和这两本畅销小说一样,他的新小说也是探索性政治、爱情和亲情等宏大主题。但是加拉西说,新小说还标志着弗兰岑在文体方面的新尝试。“There’s a kind of fabulist quality to it,” he said. “It’s not strict realism. There’s a kind of mythic undertone to the story.”“它有一种寓言意味,”他说,“不是严格的现实主义。故事有一层神秘色。”Mr. Franzen, who has a famously tortured creative temperament, spent the last two years working intensely on “Purity,” Mr. Galassi said. It’s his first novel since “Freedom” came out in 2010, though he’s published an essay collection and a translation of essays by the author Karl Kraus in the interim.弗兰岑以慢工出细活著称。加拉西说,他在过去两年里专心创作《普丽蒂》。这是他在2010年出版《自由》之后的第一本小说,不过他在其间出版了一个文集和一本卡尔·克劳斯(Karl Kraus)的译文集。Mr. Weinstein’s biography, titled “Jonathan Franzen: The Comedy of Rage,” will explore “Franzen’s metamorphoses as a person and as a writer” and includes an analysis of “Purity.” It was written with Mr. Franzen’s consent and cooperation, Mr. Weinstein said.温斯坦的传记《乔纳森·弗兰岑:愤怒的喜剧》(Jonathan Franzen: The Comedy of Rage)将探索“弗兰岑的个人和写作蜕变过程”,包括对《普丽蒂》的分析。温斯坦说,传记写作得到了弗兰岑的同意与合作。 /201411/345171

It happened in the blink of an eye. The waters around Manhattan rose more than three feet. Low-lying areas along the Hudson and East Rivers were swamped. It was Hurricane Sandy all over again, but this time, the high water was here to stay, and it would only continue to rise.眨眼间,曼哈顿周围的河水就涨了三英尺多高,淹没了哈德逊河和东河沿岸的低地。这仿佛又是飓风“桑迪”(Hurricane Sandy)的情景,不过这一次猛涨的河水不仅没有退去,还只会继续上涨。Miranda Massie did what anyone sane person would do in this situation. She fled to New Jersey. Her hand manipulated the virtual reality device at the Jockey Club Museum of Climate Change in Hong Kong, and the newly inundated New York City was left behind for the relative dryness of Paramus. Or was it Hackensack?米兰达·马西(Miranda Massie)在此时做了一件任何一个理智的人都会做的事情,那就是逃往新泽西。她在香港赛马会气候变化物馆(Jockey Club Museum of Climate Change),用手操作着虚拟现实仪器,刚刚纽约市洪水泛滥的场景瞬间变成了帕拉默斯(Paramus)相对干燥的场景。还是说,那里其实是哈肯萨克(Hackensack)?Ms. Massie was in Hong Kong to visit what she says is the world’s only museum specifically devoted to an issue that many people, including herself, view as the most pressing one facing humankind. She’s the executive director of the Climate Museum Launch Project, a group based in New York that is seeking to build a similar, but far bigger and more ambitious, museum in Manhattan.按照马西的说法,她来香港参观的这座物馆,是唯一一座专门为气候变化议题建立的物馆,而包括她在内的很多人都认为,这个议题是人类所面临的最紧迫的问题。马西是“气候物馆启动项目”(Climate Museum Launch Project)的执行总监,这个总部位于纽约的团体力图在曼哈顿建立一座类似的物馆,不过规模会更大,目标也会更大。In Hong Kong, she sought ideas and inspiration. The museum, financed by a grant from a club that runs horse racing and other betting activities, had some to offer. One was the enormous projector screen that showed the effects of rising sea levels on cities across the globe. She found another in the photo booths at the end of the tour that offered digital pictures of the visitors in a polar setting — the Chinese research vessel Xue Long, or Snow Dragon, in the background, polar bears and penguins in the foreground. To get the photo, visitors have to make a simple carbon-reducing promise. Choices included “travel less by airplane,” “bring your own shopping bag” and “eat vegetables rather than meat.”她到香港去寻找想法和启发,而这座物馆给了她一些灵感。物馆由一家从事赛马和其他活动的俱乐部提供资金持,馆内有一块用来投影的巨大银幕,向参观者展示海平面上升对全球城市所造成的影响。她还发现了另一个可以借鉴的东西,在参观的末尾处有几个自动照相棚,可以为参观者生成极地场景下的数字图像——照片中远处是中国的雪龙号极地考察船,近处则是北极熊和企鹅。如果想要得到照片,参观者必须做出一个简单的减碳承诺,可以选择“出行少坐飞机”、“自带购物袋”,或者“多吃蔬菜少吃肉”。At the end of the tour, a screen showed the effect of the combined commitments of the more than 27,000 people who have made the pledges: 997.8 million grams of carbon removed from the atmosphere.在参观的末尾处,一个屏幕上显示了超过2.7万人的承诺会起到怎样的影响:大气中的减碳量达到了9.978亿克。“It’s very hard to communicate effectively with a 5-year-old and a 45-year-old,” Ms. Massie said. “So you have to build really sophisticated and interactive displays to do that.”“要想同时与5岁的孩子和45岁的大人进行有效沟通是很难的,”马西说道,“所以需要打造一个很先进,并且具有互动性的展览。”It is the focus on what people can do collectively to reduce carbon emissions that will be the main focus of the New York museum, rather than a scary look at what the future may hold — flooded coastal cities, droughts, storms. Those calamities will not be ignored, but the focus will be on ways to mitigate climate change and to adapt to it.纽约的物馆主要是想让人们了解,如何通过集体的努力来减少碳排放,而不是给他们看可怕的未来,例如洪水泛滥的沿海城市,干旱或暴风雨。不是要无视这些灾难,而是要关注如何缓解和适应气候变化。“There’s research currently that shows the more people learn about climate, the more they tend to emotionally shut down and disengage,” Ms. Massie said. “Not everybody, but most people. Because it’s distressing and because it’s very clear that just changing the light bulbs in your own home doesn’t matter. So you have to make it clear that you’re part of a broader set of efforts and those broader efforts can succeed.”“当前的研究显示,对气候了解得越多,人们就越会情感崩溃并且选择回避,”马西说道,“虽然不是每个人都这样,但大多数人会这样。因为这会让人忧虑,大家也很清楚只是更换自己家里的电灯泡也是不管用的。所以讲清楚,你自己是更宏大的努力中的一员,而这些更广泛的努力可以获得成功。”The Hong Kong museum occupies one floor of a high-rise building on a university campus. Since it opened in December 2013, it has brought in just over 56,000 visitors, more than a third of them students. The museum’s goal, according to its program director, Cecilia Lam, is to raise awareness of climate change in Hong Kong, especially among children.香港的气候变化物馆在一所大学校园的一栋高层建筑里占据了一层。自从2013年12月开放以来,它已经吸引了超过5.6万名参观者,其中超过三分之一是学生。据项目主管杨诗诗称,这座物馆的目的是在香港提升民众对气候变化的认识,特别是在儿童中间。“The major difference between our project and Miranda’s — it seems to me that they focus on the whole world,” Ms. Lam said. “Our main group of targets is people in Hong Kong.”“我们的项目和米兰达的项目之间主要区别是,在我看来他们注重于整个世界,”杨诗诗说。“我们的主要目标人群是香港人。”Ms. Massie, 48, who worked for years as a public-interest lawyer, is looking for donors. She hopes to set up an interim museum, bigger than the one in Hong Kong, in an office building or even on a barge in New York in the next two years, with a permanent site in Manhattan (or possibly Brooklyn) by 2020.作为一个多年来致力于公益诉讼的律师,48岁的马西正在寻求捐助者。她希望在接下来的两年里建立一家临时的物馆,要比香港的这座大,可以在纽约的一栋写字楼里甚至大型游船上,直到2020年在曼哈顿(或者在布鲁克林)找到一座永久性的场所。And Ms. Massie’s goal is far more ambitious. The New York museum would aim to attract at least a million visitors a year and seek to influence the world, including political leaders in the ed States. At the end of the tour, visitors would be encouraged to volunteer their time to help groups that are trying to address climate change: doing anything from making calls on behalf of the Natural Resources Defense Council to volunteering to help elect a candidate who is determined to reduce carbon emissions.马西的目标还远不止于此。纽约的物馆计划每年吸引至少一百万的游客并企图影响世界,包括美国的政治领袖们。在参观最后,会鼓励游客花一些时间,志愿帮助那些正努力应对气候变化的团体:比如以自然资源保护协会(Natural Resources Defense Council)的名义打电话,再比如志愿帮助选举一个有决心减少碳排放的候选人。“We want to be a hub for the world for climate solutions,” Ms. Massie said. “We want to be a beacon for the world.”“我们想要成为全世界气候问题解决方案的一个中心,”马西说。“我们想要成为世界的一座灯塔。”The goals of the Hong Kong museum are far more modest. Absent from the museum is any prominent mention of the fact that Hong Kong is part of a country, China, that is far and away the world’s leading carbon emitter, putting about twice as much carbon into the atmosphere as the No. 2 polluter, the ed States.香港的物馆目标则要谦逊得多。在这座物馆里,看不到任何关于香港是中国一部分的醒目提示,后者向大气中排放的碳大约是第二排放国美国的两倍,碳排放量遥居世界首位。The many schoolchildren coming to the Hong Kong museum on field trips get a very different message. The first part of the museum replicates a trip on the Xue Long, highlighting its polar research, displaying mock-ups of ice cores taken from the polar regions and discussing the dangers climate change poses to polar bears, penguins and seals.很多来到香港的物馆参观的小学生得到了一个不同寻常的信息。物馆的第一部分复制了雪龙号上的一次旅程,突出了它的极地研究,展示了从极低挖出的冰芯的模型,并讨论了气候变化对北极熊、企鹅和海豹产生的危害。“The use of Xue Long is just one way to get the public interested in what the scientists are doing,” Ms. Lam said. “We tried to use a storytelling approach.”“运用雪龙号的例子,只是让公众对科学家所做的事情感兴趣的一种方法,”杨诗诗说。“我们尝试采取了讲故事的手段。”Back in “New York,” the simulator increases the water level. One meter, two meters, three meters, four. Ms. Massie noted that one possible future for New York is for some parts to surrender to the waters, to become a sort of Venice. Charming as that might sound, rising sea levels, she says, will be especially devastating for people living in coastal regions of poor nations, such as Bangladesh. It was the enormity of the problem that led Ms. Massie to shift her focus away from school desegregation and affirmative action and toward the environment.回到“纽约”,模拟器升高了海平面。一米,两米,三米,四米。马西注意到纽约可能的一个未来就是其中一部分要被水淹没,变得有点像。听起来可能很迷人,但她说,不断上涨的海平面,对于住在贫穷国家沿海地区的人们——比如孟加拉国——毁灭性尤其巨大。正是这个问题的严重性,使马西把她的注意从阻止学校的种族隔离和平权措施(affirmative action)转移到了环境问题。“I came to see climate change specifically is going to determine our fate as a species in a way that none of these other things is capable of doing,” she said.“我看到气候变化将会以一种特别的,其他问题所不能的方式,决定我们作为一个物种的命运,”她说。 /201505/376847

阅读提示: 对照中文翻译在上,英文原文在下。我最反感的就是打折销售:眼见四个月前全价购买的衣,如今掉价掉得已所剩无几,内心哪有快乐可言?尤其是同样的衣买来后挂在衣柜里压根没穿过,全价标签仍完好无损时。但也不尽然,打折季唯一的福音是它宣示了新时装季的到来————因此,我唯一喜欢的购物场景就是打折货架与一排排光鲜亮丽、之前从未见到的装现货比肩而立。I hate sales shopping: there is no pleasure to be had in finding things reduced to a fraction of the full price I paid four months previously (especially when that same unworn item is still swinging its full-price ticket in my wardrobe). No, the only good thing about a sale is that it announces a new season — and the only ones I like, therefore, are those in which the sales racks sit alongside rails of shiny, previously unseen stock.说起从未见过的货物,真的是实至名归。如今店铺里上架的很多装既未在T型台上亮相,也未曾在时尚刊物上大肆报道。与T型台上亮相的时装相比,它们往往价廉物美、薄利多销,它们就是季前装————整个流行时装周期中的“珍珠”。When I say unseen, I mean exactly that. Many of the clothes in store now have neither graced a catwalk nor featured in much editorial. Slightly more commercial and often less expensive than their catwalk counterparts, these are the pre-collections: the pearls of the fashion cycle.季前系列每年通常推出两次:早秋季从现在(六月)一直持续到九月,届时正好与拥趸们耳熟能详的秋季装接上茬(秋装请参看今年2月的时装秀)。另一季前系列(也称作resort或cruise季,称呼容易让人晕菜)从每年11月开始推出,直至与春季装对接上。季前系列不同于主流时装秀:色调与剪裁风格更为朴素,装也不追求标新立异,设计风格更显含蓄。它们通常更为耐穿。因此,它们如今占到各大公司年销售额70-80%的份额也就不足为奇了,它们贡献了各个品牌销售额的十之八九。There are two “pre” collections; pre-fall will trickle in store from now until September, when the clothes will be joined by the more familiar autumn pieces (seen on catwalks in February). The other “pre” collection (confusingly known as resort, or cruise) goes into shops from November in advance of the spring collections. Pre-collections are a different beast from the main shows: the palette and cut are sober; the clothes are less distinctive; the styles more subtle. They are typically more wearable. No surprise, then, that they today account for 70-80 per cent of a house’s annual sales; the vast majority of a label’s turnover.鉴于这些季前系列贡献的真金白银,那么对于在主时装季上费心费力持怀疑态度也就情有可原了。这似乎是个怪异的讽刺:我们买的多数装与T型台上秀的时装风马牛不相及。那么时装秀真的就是鸡肋吗?Considering the financial might of these collections, one would be forgiven for wondering why we even bother with seasonal fashion shows. It seems a bizarre irony that most of the clothes we buy have nothing to do with what we see on the catwalk. So is the fashion show redundant?多数时装权威人士坚称:若要提升品牌知名度,唯有T型台一条路。从经济层面看,时装秀仍是买家出手前衡量各大品牌热度的最佳平台。在时尚专家看来,时装周仍是实现媒体关注度最大化的最好舞台;而从创意层面看,时装秀仍是体现设计师理念精髓的最佳场合。Most fashion insiders insist there is no other option. Financially, the show is still the best forum for buyers to gauge the heat of a design house before they make their orders. Editorially, a fashion week is still the best arena in which to maximise media attention. And, creatively, the show is still held as being the most pure distillation of a designer’s vision.因此,季前秀俨然就是时装界的“工兵”,它就好比突然出现在舞台剧中、主演家喻户晓角色的知名性格演员:兢兢业业、不受赏识,但作用巨大。Hence, the pre-collections exist to do fashion’s donkey work, just like those great character actors who crop up in dramas starring bigger household names: never out of work, barely recognised and terrifically good value.但此一时、彼一时也。Miu Miu如今在巴黎推出自己的resort季前系列,算是拉上了非正式“时装季”(越来越多的季前系列亮相于T型台)的帷幕。过去六周里,香奈儿(Chanel)、古驰(Gucci)、路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和迪奥(Dior)分别在韩国、纽约、美国加州棕榈泉(Palm Springs)以及法国戛纳举办了季前秀场,更绝的是:J#8226;W#8226;安德森(JW Anderson)在英国剑桥艺术馆、已故馆长吉姆#8226;伊德(Jim Ede)的故居Kettle’s Yard举办了季前秀。这些季前秀往往会同台举办多场其它品牌的发布会,更多关注是否成系列。与此同时,各种季前系列层出不穷地推出。曾几何时,它们的款式屈指可数,如今俨然已是“千军万马”之势————往往有成百上千种款式。过去一年中,时尚界的“丑小鸭”已蜕变成时尚宠儿,各种季前秀把时装秀档期安排得满满当当。But things are changing. Next Saturday, Miu Miu will present its resort collection, in Paris, drawing to a close an unofficial “season” in which pre-collections are increasingly being staged. In the past six weeks, Chanel has shown in Korea, Gucci in New York, Louis Vuitton in Palm Springs, Dior in Cannes and, rather wonderfully, JW Anderson in Kettle’s Yard, the Cambridge gallery and former home of the late curator Jim Ede. These have been accompanied by myriad other presentations to put more focus on the lines. At the same time, the collections are mushrooming. Where once they amounted to a few looks, they are now massive — often numbering hundreds of pieces. Over the past year, the fashion donkey has metamorphosed into show pony, and the fashion calendar become an endless carousel of shows.CEO们声称这些计划外的秀场专注于主流时装周外的品牌。我觉得爽呆的是推出的新款不胜枚举。但设计师们如何应对这种无休止轮番上演的季前秀?要知道,很多设计师如今每年至少得观六场季前装发布会。Chief executives claim these off-schedule shows focus attention on the label outside the noise of fashion week. And I think it’s terrific there are so many new things to buy. But what do the designers — many of whom are now looking at a minimum of six collections a year — make of this hamster-wheel rate of productivity?“这让人心力交瘁。”在自己门店举行季前秀的设计师罗兰#8226;穆雷(Roland Mouret)说。“太疯狂了。”来自奥斯卡#8226;德拉伦塔(Oscar De La Renta)的设计师彼得#8226;柯平(Peter Copping)补充道。“工作量超人。”维多利亚#8226;贝克汉姆(Victoria Beckham)一边带我参观她伦敦芒特街(Mount Street)门店的季前装、一边对我说。维多利亚#8226;贝克汉姆还推出了价格便宜点的二线品牌Victoria,她先费尽心思预选出约500件,然后逐步淘汰,直到选出自己最心仪的款式:“我们店面空间有限。”对于那些未上架的衣,她这样解释道。季前装通常两次交付,所以新货往往每三个月上架一次,这与繁华商业街的店铺并无二致。“It’s exhausting,” said Roland Mouret at his store presentation. “It’s crazy,” added Peter Copping, of Oscar de la Renta. “It’s a lot of work,” said Victoria Beckham as she walked me through her pre-collection at her London Mount Street store. Beckham, who also offers a broad diffusion line (Victoria, by Victoria Beckham) had wrestled with an estimated 500-piece edit before whittling it down to her favourite looks: “We ran out of space,” she said of the clothes she had kept back. The collection will be delivered in two lots, so new stock will arrive in store every two months, not unlike the high street.尽管如此,她竭力避免举办resort季前秀。但诸位注意她的这家门店,露天市场的印花图案在她的季前系列贯穿始终。季前系列甚至有望变成时尚宠儿的意味……As yet, she has avoided staging a resort show. But watch this space. Fairground prints were a recurring motif throughout her collection. It even had a hint of show pony#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201; /201507/385276

文章编辑: 排名新闻